A Friendly Demon: Mi Pwa Lakhey
Every year in Patan, post the harvest season, an ensemble performs a unique dance. It features a terrifying face which is locally known as Lakhey. This creature dances to a merry tune played by musicians clad in traditional attire. It roams around the old routes of the city, creating ghastly fireballs, which is a spectacle that sends a bolt down one's spine.
Lakhey's, as per valley lore, are friendly demons who protect the people from evil. Majipa Lakhey and Mi Pwa Lakhey are amongst the most popular in this valley.
You are bound to stumble upon this mystical creature known as Lakhey, especially during the cultural season. It holds an important place in various cultures all over Nepal. This Lakhey, however, is peculiar. Unlike its various renditions, it seems to have this ability to conjure fireballs. He does so in crossroads, cultural centres and open squares.
You might be wondering, why?
The harvest season is a cultural break. The inhabitants are hard at work in their farms to ensure a good harvest. Once the paddy plantation is complete, the tradition of Gathe Mangal is marked. During this day, communities (twah) throw scarecrows at their nearest crossroads. The elders speak of a bygone era when the locals channelled spirits and demons from the dark dimension to aid them during plantation. They allowed the entities to possess them. With their dark strength, they would complete large batches of work in record time. But once they turn demonic, they would require a lot of food as the evil within them would always be hungry.
If unable to control the demon within them, they would go rampant pillaging.
Thus, during Gathe Mangal, the evil is removed from the body and trapped into the scarecrow. Once the transfer is complete, the individual wears a ring made of iron so that the evil may not enter their body again. The scarecrow is then dragged to the river bank and then burnt. This process releases them back to the dark dimension.
But, not all transfers are successful. Some spirits and demons either escape the scarecrow or cleverly leave the human body before the transfer. They linger in the town, causing trouble when the opportunity arrives.
Our Lakhey comes to the rescue.
The music attracts the evil entities, and its fireball destroys them. The Lakhey conducts this feat numerous times and for multiple days to cleanse the township.
This tradition once had disappeared from Patan. But what is good will always return.
This particular Lakhey dance features two main characters; the Mi Pwa Lakhey and an annoyer. Dressed in green, carrying broken branches in both hands, it does what it does best, annoy the Lakhey. A chase ensues, the annoyer runs desperately. The local kids also partake in teasing the Lakhey. They also run as fast as possible.
This game of cat and mouse livens up the atmosphere.
A team of local volunteers assists the Lakhey. Two individuals hold flaming torches, which the Lakhey utilises to create the fiery spectacle. Musicians clad in traditional attire follow the Lakhey providing a merry tune of encouragement.
This event falls during the week of Gathe Mangal. Before the team begins its route, they perform a special ritual in the cortex of Nriteshwor, the god of dance and drama. The performance comes to an end in Mangal Bazar of Patan Durbar Square.