An Adventure In Upper Mustang | Part I
Up until 2008, the Government of Nepal officially recognised the Kingdom of Lo as a Kingdom. The last recorded king (raja or gyelpo) was Jigme Dorje Palbar Bista. His lineage is traced back to 1380 AD. He is a descendant of Ame Pal, the king who oversaw the foundation and construction of Lo Manthang, the walled capital of Lo and Mustang.
In terms of geography, Traditional Mustang ( Lo Kingdom) ranges from 2750m (9020ft) above sea level at its lowest point. The highest point is 7600m (22,00 ft) at Khamjung Himal, north of Kagbeni. Hydrographically, the main feature is Gandaki River. It runs southwards to the Terai bisecting Mustang. Traders used the route to travel between Tibet and India. The Kali Gandaki Gorge is regarded as the deepest gorge in the world.
Where do I get the permit and card? How much does it cost?
As per the department of immigration, a fee of USD 500 is charged for the first 10 days. Beyond which USD 50 is levied per person/day. A trekker needs to pay the ACAP Permit, $20 per person. The TIMS (Trekkers Information Management System) card is not required in Upper Mustang. Trekkers are required to present the RAP (Restricted Area Permit).
Can I trek to Upper Mustang alone?
No! You are not allowed to trek the Upper Mustang region alone. Neither you nor an individual guide can obtain the RAP. The permit can only be requested by a registered trekking company. However, you can acquire the TIMS and ACAP Permit at Nepal Tourism Board in Kathmandu and the Tourist Office in Pokhara.
How do I start?
Once you have landed at TIA (Tribhuvan International Airport), you can either experience a bit of the capital (Kathmandu) for a few days or get a connecting flight to Pokhara. The distance between Pokhara and Kathmandu is 200 KM. You can opt to take a bus instead of a flight as well. Your available options are either local or deluxe buses.
Deluxe buses leave at 7 AM from Sorakhute Bus Station in Kathmandu. You may either book a ticket beforehand or arrive an hour early, pay and embark directly at the terminal. We recommend these buses as they have air conditioning. The travel time ranges between 7-8 hours, with stops for lunch and snacks at good quality rest stops.
You can skip all of the hassles by contacting the front desk officer at the hotel. S/he shall do their best to arrange these services for you. They can also develop a proper itinerary to experience Lower Mustang at a reasonable rate.
When is the right time to trek?
In Nepal, Spring and Autumn is prime trekking season. The skies are clear with light to minimal rainfall. Autumn (Mid-September to Mid-November) is best for Lower Mustang Trek.
During other months such as December - February, the climate is colder and potential high snowfall may not allow you to trek above High Camp. Whereas during pre-monsoon ( Mid-May to Mid-July) and monsoon (Mid-July to Mid-September), chances of rain and clouding are high. The forest area shall be full of leeches and mosquito's.
Spring (Mid-March to Mid-May) is also a great time to trek this region. Temperature is nominal, and winds are light, allowing you to have a beautiful walk. The plant life will be blossoming: amplifying the atmosphere.
What should I wear and carry?
Proper clothing is vital while trekking to remote areas. In Spring and Autumn, you need summer/light clothing for the day hours and warmers for the night. If you’re travelling during the pre-winter and winter months, you need to wear your heavy jacket. During pre-winter and winter, warm clothes are essential. A heavily padded jacket, full sleeve t-shirt and fleece-lined pants are essential. During spring and autumn, a parka is mandatory. An umbrella and a raincoat should be carried as well.
Does the trek cost the same around the year?
No, the cost presented to you by your tour agent varies as per the season. The cost of accommodation is higher during peak season. Food costs rise during winter as transportation of goods becomes difficult. During peak season, you are bound to be over-charged. Off-season treks are usually less expensive due to slow business. You’ll get a sweet deal if you time your adventure off-season.