Pahan Charhe - Festival in Nepal
Synopsis: In Newar, Bhasa Pahan means to invite and Charhe means on the fourteenth day of the lunar fortnight. The celebration sees the old town centre of Kantipur ( Now Kathmandu) filled with devotees as the palanquin of three mother goddesses are paraded by revellers. This three-day festival brings together the community in a unique manner and has helped build communal strength and friendship.
Pahan meaning guests and Charhe meaning on the fourteenth day of the lunar fortnight, the avid tunes of the festival can be heard for three consecutive days in the old towns of the city of Kathmandu. The festival sees the invitation of beloved guests and members of the family to take part in a magnificent feast prepared for the occasion.
The tradition of Pahan Charhe is commenced a week earlier with an invitation from the mother of the Ajima’s. The festival is also known as Duru Cha Cha Jatra, and once the invitation is received the celebration of Pahan Charhe is commenced exactly a week after.
Pahan Charhe is celebrated for three days, the first day sees the worship of the deity of Luku Mahadyah ( Lord Shiva). Luku in Newari means hidden whereas Mahadyah is a local name for Lord Shiva. This day sees members of the household clean their homes and surroundings and make offerings to the deity. At Nyata in Naradevi a special mask dance of the Nyatamaru Ajima is performed. The sacred dance features performers dressed in the traditional colours of the Ajima’s with a mask perform tales of Swetkali. The dance is in an archaic form of storytelling, which starts in the evening and continues through the night.
The Ajima’s are protective goddesses placed by the Malla Kings at strategic locations around the city to form a protective ring. It is tradition to place an army barrack near the temple of the Ajima, even today the army barrack is situated beside Lomari Ajima also known as Bhadrakali. Each Malla city has it’s own version of the protective goddesses, wherein Patan they are known as Asta Matrika and in Bhaktapur; Nawa Durga.
The protective goddesses are symbolized as the shakti (strength) of Male Goddesses. The eight mother goddesses are Brahmayani (The Shakti of Lord Brahma), Maheswari (The Shakti of Lord Shiva), Bal Kumari (The Shakti of Lord Bhairav), Vaishnavi (The Shakti of Lord Vishnu), Varahi (The Shakti of Lord Narayan), Indrayani (The Shakti of Lord Indra) whereas Chamunda and Mahalaxmi are fierce manifestations of Goddess Kali and Laxmi.
On the second day, which is also known as Dyah Lwakegu is celebrated at the open field of Tudikhel. During when shrines of the Ajima are placed in a palanquin and paraded in their respective locals in Kathmandu. The day also sees the celebration of the annual Ghode Jatra, one of the most important festivals of the Newar Pantheon. The legends of the Gurumapa are stories with which Newar children grow up with and is folklore in the valley.
During the night, the palanquin is taken to Tudikhhel which is followed by an entourage of devotees and traditional Newari musical ensemble. Each community brings forth a flame torch which is exchanged symbolizing the meeting of the goddesses. The palanquin procession of the Ajima was started by King Amar Malla during the Nepal Sambat year 580 (1460AD).
The third and final day of the festival sees the gathering of huge masses at the old city centre of Asan. The palanquins of Lumadhi Ajima(Maheshwari), Kanga Ajima (Varahi) and Tebhana Ajima (Chamunda) are brought in there respective palanquins and paraded in the street. These Ajima are believed to be sisters. The historic market place sees the meeting of the individuals of the respective locales-who all wear coloured hats of red, blue and yellow which are respective of the localities.
During the Dyah Lwakegu ceremony, participants accompanying the shrines exchange flaming torches. Devotees offer traditional Newari rice bread, known as Chatanmari to the deities and during this day can be seen thrown from even the rooftops of the homes in Asan. Traditional seasonal songs are placed the musical ensemble during the meeting of the gods, where participants can be celebrating with avid fanfare and dancing to the beautiful melancholy.