Sacred Spaces: Kwa Bahal
The one thing you learn when you travel across Nepal is that many places give you a feeling of home. You feel welcome and comfortable, and almost question how the setting can be so soothing. From the capital city to the farthest reaches within the border, many places hold both religious and cultural significance.
Let’s not go too far and stay close to the capital. Within the Kathmandu Valley, the Patan area is a popular hub for those seeking to admire history, art, and culture. Among the many significant places, there is one such gem just north of the Durbar Square--the Hiranya Varna Mahavihar, or The Golden Temple, as it’s informally called.
Origins
This unique Buddhist monastery founded in the 12th century by King Bhaskar Varma is a three-storey golden pagoda of Shakyamuni Buddha--locally known as Kwa Bahal. Bahal or Baha (Nepal Bhasa: बहाः) is a type of courtyard found amongst Newari communities and is the most dominant type in Newari Architecture. Baha is a Buddhist monastery and derives its name from the Sanskrit word Bihara, meaning joy or enchantment.
Generally, a family constructs the Baha where their descendants reside for generations. It is not only a unit of residence but also of kingship. The Hiranya Varna Mahavihar or Kwa Bahal houses Prajnaparamita.
Prajnaparamita means the perfection of transcendent wisdom in Mahayana Buddhism. It refers to the perfected ways of seeing the nature of reality, with references to sutras and personification of the concept of the Great Mother.
Kwa Bahal:
The Hiranya Varna Mahavihar--hiranya, meaning mouse-- gets its name from the myth of a golden mouse that chased cats. Before it grew to be called The Golden Temple, it was known as the Rat Temple as well.
The nickname Golden Temple came about through tourism rather than being made of pure gold. The temple gets its name from the gilded metal plates that cover most of its frontage, and most of the temple is polished brass.
This temple is among many arguably the most incredible temples in the world, and not merely another Buddhist temple in a city full of temples. This pagoda temple is tucked away in this quiet part of Patan and boasts an ornate interior and intricate metalwork and stone statues.
The unique architecture and the detailed carvings are always fascinating for both visiting tourists and locals. Although photography is not allowed, many tourists gather here, mostly with their guides and learn about the significance of this sacred monument.
The monastery adorns a golden facade with four gateways, a clock tower, and two lion sculptures. The lions sit at the eastern doorways with the signature of Krishnabir, the master stones man who sculpted the entrance with the cornice of Buddhist deities.
The eastern doorway leads to the central courtyard; shoes and leather articles are not allowed in the lower courtyard. The figure of two important Hindu deities, Vishnu and Shiva, is carved on the entrance doorway believed to safeguard this sacred place. When closed, the door also pictures a carved Bhairab, believed to protect the people from any bad happenings. Outside of winter, look for the tortoises hanging about the compound---these are the temple guardians.
Another door depicts the image of Buddha teaching the path of practising paramita to achieve Bodhisattva. The carvings on the entrance to the central courtyard depict the Gods of Three Yans---Sravakayana, Mahayana, and Vajrayana.
Inside, the temple is much larger than it appears. It is a getaway from the liveliness of Patan Durbar Square and the many alleys. Inside, with clean seating spaces, you can rest and listen to the Buddhist chanting that will give you goosebumps.
A smaller shrine containing a Swayambhu (self-risen) chaitya faces the main temple. There are statues of four Lokeshvaras (incarnations of Avalokiteshvara) and four monkeys holding fruits as offerings on each of the four corners of the courtyard. On the upper floor, lies a dedicated chapel to Avalokiteshvara with a wheel of life and Tibetan-style frescoes.
The main priest of the temple is a young 12-year old boy, who serves for a month before handing over the job to another young boy. Male children of that age are chosen as the Panchasheel is maintained at this age. The Panchasheel--doesn’t kill, tell lies, have corrupt thoughts, and drink or smoke. Children are suitable to don the mantle of such a role.
Going barefoot in temples is part of the culture, and it adds to the experience of visiting such sacred places. Even among the host of must-see architectural wonders and temples, this stunningly beautiful and serene piece of Nepal history, still, part of living Kathmandu, is a well worth visit.