Lalitpur, a city of diverse culture, art and tradition is home to many wonders and mysteries. It was known as Patan in a bygone era, this name is still associated with the core settlement of the city. In it lies a sacred space which has stood the test of time and outlasted various dynasties that once battled to rule this glorious city.
This sacred space is no other then Kwa Bahal, which today is also known as the Golden Temple of Lalitpur. The main complex houses the idol of Shakyamuni Buddha, locally known as Kwapajju which was rescued from the ruins of Pingala Bahal by a descendent of the monasteries priest. (An ancient monastery established by Pingala Devi that once stood in the Pasupati area).
Kwa bahal was commissioned, by King Bhasker Dev Verma a Thakuri king who hailed from Noakot (Nuwakot) mountains and appointed after Jaya-Kama- Deva who did not have any children.
“This Raja had no issue, so after his death the Thakuris of the Noakot mountain came and elected a Raja from among themselves.” Wright, 1990: 157
The location where he established the bahal was once known as Kwatha, meaning a fort. This site is known to have been the domain of a Kirati ruler, who had commissioned a Buddhist shrine. The ruins of which was converted, into the abode of Kwapajju.
Every month a deopala (caretaker) is appointed at Kwa Bahal who bears the responsibility of overseeing all rites and rituals. His first act is to nominate a Bapacha, a young boy aged 10-12 years; smart and gentle who shall attend to all the need of Kwapajju (Shakyamuni Buddha).
Traditionally he (Bapacha) is nominated from within the members of the deopalas family. If a suitable candidate is not found, he is picked from the households who are members of the monastic community.
Once a candidate is ordained, his initiation process begins.
His head is shaved as an act of purification and he puts on a uniform, which features a long-dress, cotton belt and no shoes. His diet consists of only vegetarian food. For the month, he isolates himself to only his religious duties. He is bared, from contacting his friends and even his family. These restrictions may seem like taboos but are steps to ensure his full devotion, and focus.
He is guided by Neekulimha, who for generations has been the custodian of many Bapachas. She ensures his well-being, cooks him specific food and makes sure he follows all the codes and conducts.
His day beings at the crack of dawn offering a special prayer to the idol. He rings a bronze bell, waves the yak-tail and sprinkles holy water on to the devotees. He beats a dharma-gandi ( a wooden instrument), which reminds the local people of their religious (dharma) duties. During his working hours, the passage to the main temple is blocked by a metal chain so that devotees may not distract or get too close to him. He is assisted by an older boy inside the Kutgar (The space where the idol is placed) to perform rituals.
One of his prime duties is making a scheduled walk around the locality of the Golden Temple monastery. He takes a specific route once in the morning and later in the evening. During his commute, he rings a bronze bell which he holds in his left hand. The other holds two keys of the bahal gates. He walks barefoot, and in complete silence, every day. He is escorted by a gentleman who warns others to make way for the Bapacha.
You may be curious about why a young boy is assigned such an important and challenging role?
The tale of the origin of Bapacha passed down from oral traditions goes as follows.
In antediluvian times it is said Lalitpur, was ruled by a Kirati King named Patuko. He established his capital at a hillock near the monastery, where his ancestors once once built a fort. This place is still known as Patuko, which lies opposite of the cross-roads of the path to Mahapal.
He (King Patuko) and his followers troubled the locals greatly. He even went far as to set up a perimeter around the bahal and caused many obstacles to the devotees and travellers. The religious duties were conducted by a priest, who was extremely frightened by the Kirati ruler. One day, he decided that it was too dangerous for him to head to the monastery, thus, decided to send his son instead.
The boy was young and innocent. Thus his father thought the Kirati soldiers would just let him go thinking he was a child. Being obedient, he listened to his father carefully, as he taught him the way to perform the daily rituals.
